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Williamsburg, if you haven’t been there, is worth the trip. It’s hard to get to, way out on the Virginia coast. It’s very expensive. And it’s not child friendly. But they’re very serious about re-creating the earliest moments of American colonial history, not just as a still life, but in motion, including the sounds and the tastes.

Ken was there to speak at the College of William & Mary. I went as a tourist, not least because I suspected (and it’s true) that some of the most authentic colonial cookery — now considered obsolete by urban foodies — is to be found there. The Rockefeller Room at the Williamsburg Inn clearly has well trained and up-to-date chefs, but everything in the Rockefeller Room has a traditional spin. The menus in the taverns are brilliant. The ales are superb.

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