Levering Orchard

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Ken climbs a cherry tree.

Today we drove to Levering Orchard in Ararat, Virginia, hoping to pick some cherries. Unfortunately we were a week or so too late for this year’s cherry crop, but we did pick some peaches and some Lodi apples.

Levering Orchard has been operated by the Levering family for three generations. Frank Levering now runs the orchard. Frank has written several books on rural living. He and his wife, Wanda Urbanska, produced the PBS television series Simple Living. I first met Frank more than 30 years ago, so we had a chance today to talk about old times and old friends.

I’ll probably make a pie from some of the apples. Most of the peaches probably will go into peach smoothies.

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Ken Ilgunas and Frank Levering

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Levering peaches

Best pie I ever made

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My lattice is a little free form, isn’t it? But it tastes just the same as a geometrically perfect lattice.

In my family, the reference and standard for good cooking — a standard that is almost impossible to meet — is the standard set by one of our grandmothers. She made amazing pies. Today I made a pie that comes awfully close to meeting that standard. Ken and a friend of his visiting from New York picked half a gallon of wild blackberries out in the 96-degree heat. With the berries brought absolutely fresh into a cool kitchen, I baked a pie using Irma Rombauer’s recipe from the 1943 edition of The Joy of Cooking. I made a simple crust — unbleached flour, olive oil, and ice water — from Rosalie Hurd’s Ten Talents cookbook.

It’s the best pie I’ve ever made, and it just may be the best blackberry pie I’ve ever had — perfect berries and a perfect crust, served warm. It was dessert to a homemade pizza dressed with roasted green tomatoes.

Euell Gibbons

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My photo of Euell Gibbons, foraging on a North Carolina strawberry farm around 1973. Seeing an opportunity to add a nice detail to the photo, I remember sprinting up from behind Mr. Gibbons to get a photo with the ducks in the background.

Most of us who are interested in simple living and growing food also are interested in foraging. Here at the abbey, I have a growing collection of books on foraging. One classic that belongs in everyone’s library is Euell GibbonsStalking the Wild Asparagus. This book was first published in 1962. It became a best seller and has remained in print all these years.

It was my good luck to get to go foraging with Euell Gibbons many years ago. He was in North Carolina at the time, and a friend of mine, a reporter, was writing a newspaper story about him. She invited me along to take pictures. After some early morning foraging on a winter day, we cooked breakfast using what we’d gathered.

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The straw bale experiment is under way

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Ken and I planted some tomatoes and basil in the straw bales yesterday. We’ll see how it goes. The vegetable garden is going to be very limited this year. The fence-building project got in the way. Not to mention that to start a garden before the fence was up would be to take chances with the deer (again). Last year, for example, the deer pretty much wiped out all my tomato plants in one night.

This year, however, there will be a weekly farmer’s market in Walnut Cove, and a farmer’s market every other week at Danbury. I’m hoping those two farmer’s markets will make up for the smallness of the vegetable garden.

Sardines?

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I had never eaten sardines until yesterday. But lately sardines have been showing up on such lists as “the top 10 healthiest foods that you aren’t eating.” I bought a can at Whole Foods.

How do they taste? Not all that bad. Kind of like canned tuna, but with a stronger flavor.

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Strawberry preserves

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The sign marks the spot on Brook Cove Road.

It had been 20 years since I’d made strawberry preserves. Ken was eager to make preserves for the first time. Monday, May 10, was an unusually cool day, perfect for picking strawberries. So off to Mabe’s Berry Farm we went. Mabe’s Berry Farm is on Brook Cove Road near Walnut Cove.

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A strawberry field worker loads berries to be sold already picked.

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The berries are cheaper if you pick them yourself. Here’s Ken with the three gallons of strawberries we picked.

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Our berries are transferred to boxes for the ride home.

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Back at home, the jars and berries are almost ready to start. The jars will go into the dishwasher to get them clean and hot.

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Ken caps strawberries.

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Washed and capped and ready to cook

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The strawberries are boiled with sugar. The preserves use a lot of sugar — five cups of sugar for each quart and a half of strawberries. The lids are boiling in the pot to the right.

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All done.

Sourdough starter R.I.P.

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The sourdough crock, after a good washing

I am ashamed to report that my sourdough starter is dead. It molded. I suppose I put too much faith in advice gleaned searching the web that a sourdough starter could safely live outside the refrigerator for up to a week. So I have a new rule: The sourdough starter will stay in the fridge except when it’s being fed.

My sister dispatched a jar of her sourdough starter to Stokes County with my brother, who had to make the trip to Stokes to bring a new bathroom cabinet he built for me. My sister’s starter also is fairly new and homemade. She’s had very good luck with it and has made several loaves of good bread.

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My sister’s sourdough starter, recently fed for making bread tomorrow

Sourdough update

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Whole wheat sourdough bread from homemade starter

I am a novice at sourdough bread, but I do think I’ve learned that sourdough requires experience. Experience not only for the baker, but also for the sourdough starter. My sourdough starter, which I made from scratch, is now a month old. I first made bread with it when it was seven days old. The first loaf rose, and it was decent bread, but each subsequent loaf has gotten better. I think this is because I’m learning how to handle sourdough and because the starter is getting more mature. At first, the starter had more of a neutral, fruity smell. Now it’s getting more and more sour and smells more and more like sauerkraut.

Yesterday’s bread took six hours to rise. I suppose that’s normal, but I’m still learning.

Here’s a link to my previous post on sourdough.

Google recipe books

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Coconut custard pie

More and more, when I Google for recipes, I get recipes from published cookbooks on Google Books. I’ve had it in my head for a while to make a coconut custard pie. My usual reference for standard recipes is the 1943 edition of Irma Rombauer’s Joy of Cooking, but Rombauer’s recipe didn’t fit my ingredients. I wanted a recipe that uses dried, unsweetened coconut. I found such a recipe at Google books, in the cookbook The Dessert Bible.

I only make things like this when I have company. My mother is visiting. We finished off the chocolate apple sauce cake I made on Saturday, and the coconut custard pie was next on the list of dessert recipes I wanted to try.